Kohi-Noor, 211 Whiteladies Road, Bristol, BS8 2XS
I remember two friends introducing me to the delights of the food served here a few years ago but for some reason – probably living the other side of Bristol – I had not been back since. This is of course a lame excuse so I decided to go back and, a couple of days ago, I came here with friends for a meal. I particularly enjoyed the food and within a few days I was back again. This review shows the verdicts from the two trips.
I thought the service excellent, the staff attentive without being intrusive. The decor is fairly modern and quite tasteful. But of course what really matters is the food.
Goan Fish Curry — I chose the Goan fish curry dish as I wanted to try something a bit out of the ordinary and I found it delicious. The oily fish worked perfectly with a citrus sauce that included green chillies, onions and spices, the acidity cutting through the oiliness. Lovely! It was served in a novel fish-shaped ceramic dish.
There’s a great choice of dishes at this restaurant, many of which you won’t find at your average curry house, for example the Kadak Kebab Samarkand, the Gosht Belliram and the Raan-A-Sikandari. I tried the naan bread which are large and the pilau rice, and both were tasty. I also loved the mixed tandoori starter (I can’t resist food cooked tandoori-style) and the Lal Mass – a delicious and very spicy lamb dish decorated with strips of ginger.
On the first trip, a friend had the Raan-A-Sikandari (whole lamb shank marinated in spices) and it looked irresistible. I tried this myself on the second trip and it was sublime – the meat fell away from the bone and had a ‘melt in the mouth’ texture. The spices had an aniseed taste and I wonder if the chef had used star anise or tamarind. I’m not sure how but I managed to eat a chocolate dessert too. I was expecting from the menu photo for it to be a hot dessert but when it arrived it turned out to be a cold dessert – very moorish.
Raan-A-Sikandari — “A royal dish of Nizam Hyderabad” formed the description of the lamb shank at the Kohi-Noor, and even though I never met Nizam-ul-Mulk, I can be fairly confident that he would be happy with what is prepared. The shank came to the table, dressed in a tin-foil plume. The sauce was really rich, fresh and spicy without being overpowering. The meat was really very soft and tender and fell off the bone. Even the marrow tasted good. The restaurant itself is pleasant and the service was good. The meal was a bit more expensive than we ordinarily pay but worth it. By Botch Claypole
Lal Mass — Highly tasty and a very spicy lamb dish, which is what I was looking for. By Tintenfisch
Chana Masala — Nice enough. By Blenchly
Sag Paneer & Mushroom Pilau rice — Enjoyed this. By James W.